( Due to trying to catch up with posts for each day, I will be posting in reverse order, so please scroll down for earlier posts – sorry if the story seems a bit disjointed but I’m writing the chapters in reverse order… please be patient, thanks)
We were up early, well I guess not that early compared to some of the days we have had recently. Around 7:45 am the alarm went off, and as we had invited the guys to our room for breakfast to finish off the feast from last night, A quick shower was called for.

A master sandwich maker at work! (L to R- Robbie, Mike, Me & Joop)
At just after 8:00 Joop arrived with Robbie, who was looking delicate to say the least…. but that is not unusual for Robbie, the early starts and the late nights were catching up with him. I seemed to fall into being chief sandwich maker using Feroz’s Leatherman tool to slice a small loaf up as thinly as I could and produce some of the best in-flight sandwiches available in Russia… they weren’t the best because I had made them, they were the best because I think they were the only in-flight sandwiches available in Russia at that time.
Eventually Will & Mike showed up and more sandwiches were produced, until there was nothing left to put on them. God knows what the room cleaning service would think about our room, I wasn’t really bothered anyhow, as I guess I’ll never be back there to find out. Thinking about it though, I guess it would be a few days before they get around to our room, nothing seems to happen very fast here. (remember those words….. they will become a recurrent theme today)
Will, whose room was on the other side of the hotel and overlooked the apron said they had been running up one of the Bear’s this morning and it had taken off (always the way…. me here and my camera in the aircraft!) I had heard something running up, but I didn’t expect it to be a Bear. We had seen them on landing, but just guessed that they were parked up rotting away like so many Soviet aircraft we had seen at all the other ex Soviet airfields. Apparently, Anadyr was the town where Abramovitch (he of Chelsea foot ball club fame) was the mayor and he had “donated” several million rubles and rebuilt the airport. It was probably the most modern airport we had landed at since leaving Turkey, but, I wish he had employed and architect that had at least seen an airport before setting out to design one… it did not flow well, and I lost count of how many times we passed the full sized stuffed bear in the main hall as we crisscrossed from one department to another. Even the commercial passengers didn’t fare much better as their bags came off the plane on to a truck, were sent into one hole in a wall for x-raying, I guess…. why I don’t know as only 50% of the xray machines were turned on…. then out of the building onto another truck, to be driven round the corner and through another hole back into the same building… go figure!
Back to the plot, apparently, the Bear had done a circuit earlier, and I was keen to see it fly. I had seen a famous photo taken in the 60′s over the North Sea of a Bear at high altitude with an English Electric Lightening next to it as it tested the UK’s air defense systems, before returning at hi altitude to the Soviet Union. For me, this was something I thought I’d never see, I assumed that these planes from the cold war era were long since grounded, and were memories from my childhood.
Breakfast over and sandwiches made, we packed up finally for the last time in Russia and headed to reception to hand our keys in and meet up with the others. Eventually we all arrived, and were directed down one floor to the covered bridge that linked the hotel to the terminal building. The door was locked as the airport did not open till 9:00am…. so we waited…. at 9:00 to officers appeared, complete with big hats to open the door…. we were not allowed through the door however, we had to go through another one, to have our passports checked. The first crew went in and we waited…. and waited…… and waited……the first crew came back out. The customs officers were having a conference and decided that they would collect all out passports and Gen Decs that were stamped when we entered Russia…. and a new Gen Dec for leaving Russia was required as well…. more paperwork! All the Gen Decs were collected…. we waited….. they then announced they wanted us to refuel the aircraft first before clearing customs…. we were to leave our bags on the corridor and we would be escorted to our aircraft…. but before anyone goes, we had to declare if we were carrying more than $3000 US…. another form was handed out. At this point, our host and fuel fixer Igor, collected the 300 rouble paying in slips from Myself, Feroz and Bill and headed off towards the bank we guessed.
With all the confusion, a couple of the crew slipped past the guards with their luggage… that was the opportunity everyone was looking for… waiving Gen Decs at the customs officers en mass, we all slipped through with our bags and headed to the main terminal, past the stuffed bear (again) through a metal detector arch (not turned on) past another xray machine (not turned on) to the door that lead out onto the steps down to the apron. A young female officer turned up and insisted we walk round to the other side of the x-ray machine and put our bags on. OK, we all… well some of us….. passed through the metal detector arch again (still not turned on) put our bags on the now switched on x-ray machine and waked through the metal detector arch again. The bags were going on the x-ray machine so fast and she was so concerned that we all passed through the arch, she did not have chance to look at the screen to see any of the bags… they were collected as quickly as they had been dumped on and we all collected round the door with the resolve that if she didn’t open the door, there would be another international incident. The door was unlocked.
We headed out to our aircraft, watched by a man in a blue uniform wielding a camera, who was trying to take pictures of us and the aircraft with out anyone noticing…. not successfully I hasten to add, as we all noticed him. I suspect one or two were even posing for him.
We were told the truck containing the fuel was outside the airport but the airport was not going to let it in as they did not want to accept any responsibility for it….. I think the real reason was that it was still night in Moscow and there was no one awake that they could ask permission to allow it. We waited…. and waited….. and waited…… three hours ticked by…. good news, they would allow it, if all the crew signed waivers just in case anything happened….. it would take an hour or two to type the letter…. so we waited, all the time getting bitten by the mosquitoes! If you venture to Anadyr, I can recommend showering in Deet or something similar before venturing outside!
The hi light of been stood on the apron for some time was watching the two Soviet Bear aircraft do circuits and a huge 4 engined Tupolev do a couple of sorties. The sound from the Tupolev”s engines reminded me of a Vulcan bomber as he powered up, you could feel the crackle of the four jet engines rattle your rib cage
Finally, a bit of paper arrived and we all crowded round to sign it. Within minutes a truck arrived along with a fork lift to unload barrels…. dark rusty barrels…. with English and french writing on them. Opening the seals, we discovered that they had come form Esso in Canada in 2004… how the heck they got into Siberia we will never know. Opening the barrels, the fuel was bright blue, so the stabilizers were OK and the fuel was alright to use. There was no signs of rust on the inside of the barrels as the coating was intact and the water test proved that there was no water absorption into the fuel or water lying at the bottom of the barrels. We all eagerly filled up out tanks. Feroz and I transferred all the fuel remaining in the internal tank to the right wing main, so we knew that the fuel in there was OK, and topped off the three remaining tanks with the 5 year old ex Canadian fuel.
OK, we looked like we were all set….. all we had to do was clear customs and immigration…Back to the terminal, passed the stuffed Bear (again) and back to the bridge that linked the hotel to the main terminal. as we passed through, the door behind us was locked firmly… not a good sign I thought. We all congregated on the corridor from the hotel again where we had been some 5 hours earlier.
By now, the flight plans to the USA were out of date, and the eAPIS electronic forms were out of date too, and we had no way of updating them (no Internet in Anadyr!) I think Rodney managed to telephone his US Customs contact and let them know. He was told that Officer Nate Edwards would be at Nome when we arrived, and not to worry.
The previously locked door was opened and we were all filed into a room. We had to fill out an immigration form and hand it in. Feroz, Bill and Myself were called forward and our passports collected by an officer who had dealt with us the previous day and he took them off somewhere. All the others were asked to form into crews and wait in front of the door we had waited at now some 6 hours earlier this morning. The first crew went in and the customs officers seemed annoyed that there was no luggage to inspect (remember we had sneaked it all past earlier) so anything that was being carried went on to the x-ray belt…. bottles of water, pages of paperwork, anything so that they had something to x-ray. By his time, Feroz, Bill and I had been given our passports back and we joined the queue with the others. It had been decided that the fastest aircraft would go first so Joop and Robbie were at the front of the “to be processed” line. Feroz and I slotted somewhere in third or fourth place. We guessed it would be better to get some of the aircraft into the USA as soon as we could so that they would then at least know the rest were following.

Hanging about for fuel.....
Eventually, Feroz and I were “processed”….. how much fuel were we carrying in Kilograms, the usual stuff….. our Gen Dec’s were checked against our passports, and we had the official “nod” to go and wait in the next line….. immigration. We shuffled up to the next booth. It was obvious that someone had been watching a movie about the immigration service at US airports…. the booth’s were almost an exact copy. A green light flashed on and a small gate opened, I shuffled forward. The female officer stared at my passport and back at me several times (OK OK, I know my passport photo is not exactly the best photo I have ever taken, but come on….. you can tell its ME!) Eventually, with a flourish of stamping sounds my passport got several stamps in it and it was pushed back under the glass screen towards me. “Placeba….Dostrivdanya” i said in my best Russian accent (learned from watching James Bond movies…. maybe not a good thing with hindsight) The green light came on and I headed back out on to the corridor again ( I told you that there was little thought to the layout of the airport) I was ushered back in to the room we had been in earlier while filling out the immigration forms…. we had to wait until all the crews had been processed…… so much for getting the fastest aircraft away first.
Eventually, the door opened again and we were all ushered out down the link bridge back towards the terminal…. this time we were lead through a different door…. through the back of the terminal and we bypassed the Stuffed Bear (shame, I was getting to like him) and on the the apron. We were supposed to get on the bus to drive us round the corner of the building to our aircraft, but as there was no drives, a unilateral decision was taken subconsciously and like a shoal of those fish that all turn exactly at the same time, we all turned and set off across the apron much to the surprise of the officers (still in the big hats).

Waiting in line at the hold...
It was Feroz’s leg to fly so I was next tot he door, which was open as I was strapping in…. a customs officer appeared and stood watching me strap in. As soon as I was settled and was sorting out my kneeboard for the flight, he walked up and pointed at the cargo door….. “open” he said in a heavy Russian accent and pointed again at the door. I unstrapped again and climbed out, getting my keys out, I unlocked the door and opened it, he shoved his head inside and pulled and prodded out luggage. ON seeing the storage boxes he pointed and said “What here” …. “Aircraft spares and tools” I said…. “OK” he muttered and walked off towards the next aircraft. This was the Gulag capital of Russia, so I guess they didn’t want us sneaking one or two gulags out!

Two of the Russian "Bear" four engine turbo prop aircraft in the distance

looking back at Anadyr after a left turnout
We requested start up and eventually were cleared to the hold for 01, with a departure clearance of a simple left turn out and climb to 400 metres……….. Our first reporting point was “KB” and to clear the zone boundary at “MORUG” and on to Providenya where shortly afterwards we would finally leave Russian airspace and cross into the Alaskan FIR…. “Anchorage Centre November Seven Two Two Papa” I called over the radio…. “November Seven Two Two Papa, Anchorage Centre go ahead”……. After several days of having controlers that viewed us as an inconvenience that had to be dealt with, it was so nice to hear a controller that enjoyed their job and you knew they are there to help….. Welcome to America.

Just crossed the 180 degree meridian... for Feroz & Myself who had started in Cambridge we were now officially half way round the world!!
The weather in Nome was not as good as we had hoped for, Anchorage centre descended us down to 7000 and asked what approach we wanted into Nome, I opted for a RNAV for 03 as I thought it would be quicker than flying a 20 mile DME Arc…. got that one wrong in a big way! Nome. despite being in the middle of nothing, was the preferred destination of choice for all the aircraft in the area it seemed, everyone was heading there, just at the same time we were. I guess ATC earn their money by getting all the aircraft in one spot at the same time, then justifying their existence by then keeping us all from crashing into each other. Ho Hum.
We were cleared to “SKYVY” at 6000 feet and on reaching, Centre asked us to take up the hold and expect further clearance in 10 minutes….. we were sat in a cell and being bounced about…. on our third time round we got the call “N722P descend and maintain 6000 expect further clearance 0545″
Down we went, still in the hold…. Centre stacked someone 1000 feet above us and we had an Arctic Air commuter plane 1000 ft below us.
“N722P Descend and maintain 5000 expect further clearance 0550″, down we went again, by now we could see some clouds being illuminated by lightening and the storm scope was glowing with bright green dots……. “N722P cleared for the approach 03 into Nome contact tower” Off we went, we had a lot of hight to loose and it was bouncing us about good style…..we turned out of the hold and off we went down to the first hight on the plate at the next point…. stepping down to the next point put us in a position we could do a 3 degree slope into the field, Feroz set a decent rate that should put us at the right height, I called out the heights as crossed each 200 foot mark, down to the minima of 1300 feet. We both peered out of the windshield….. “lights slightly right…runway in site” I shouted to Feroz…. “Got them” came the reply….. “Tower N722P runway in site”
“N722P cleared to land” We approached the runway in torrential rain and lighning flashing round us. I think that is what flight instructors call an “intresting approach”
Resume own navigation and watch for traffic.
S
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